Description Albariño has become a real hit with wine lovers who want a thoroughly crisp white, with a touch of weight and ample ocean freshness. The best come from Rías Baixas, in northwest Spain. Here, its green rolling hills aren't far from the Atlantic. Stony-fresh and citrusy, Pazo Cilleiro is from the very heartland of the region, Val do Salnés. Its mosaic of tiny vineyards are hard to navigate for outsiders, but not for local winemaker Pepe Rodriguez (known in Spain as the ‘father of modern Albariño’). He knows exactly where to find the best grapes, all hand-harvested and the juice cool fermented, so the wine is beautifully fresh with bright citrus and peach aromas, and white blossom hints. Superb, well chilled, with seafood or paella.